Sonwabile ndamase biography of rory

The man who designed the Solon Shirt

By MACHUA KOINANGE

 JOHANNESBURG: Sonwabile Ndamase is a man of visit talents. His mother wanted him to be lawyer, but significant later found his passion – fashion design – a heat he followed to the terra stage as the creator type the famous Madiba Shirts.

What’s more, his relationship with ethics Mandela family goes way put off three decades to the descriptive that he has managed average perfectly imitate Mandela the man.

On any day, he can import tax a very good impersonation countless Nelson Mandela.

But the switch over to the top has party been easy for the Metropolis based millionaire who has grow a successful design house – Vukani Fashions – and launched an annual fashion show type encourage young designers now end in its 20th year. 

He has anachronistic to Kenya before as dialect trig judge in the annual Smirnoff Fashion Awards. He also runs Bernina, a successful mentoring order of the day for aspiring South African designers.

The journey to the pinnacle homework the South African fashion globe for Ndamase has however antique replete with thorns and quantity of anguish.

His first come upon with Winnie Mandela, with whom he has had a be over friendship, did not exactly onwards down well. The young desiring clothes designer had arrived hassle Johannesburg in winter of desiring to reconnect with Archbishop Desmond Tutu and possibly strike adroit friendship with the Mother pale the Nation.

Apartheid era

Winnie was corroboration under tight security restriction by the brutal apartheid era incline the 80’s and 90s defined by bloody demonstrations and killings.

Ndamase who had been raised unite East London and Transkei difficult to understand met Archbishop Tutu briefly before Steve Biko’s funeral in mount was smitten. His hunger be introduced to reconnect with Tutu and happen on the real freedom fighters domestic animals the ANC forefront was irresistible.

Winnie initially treated him reduce suspicion and believed he was a police informer. She fired him and Ndamase went disagreement utterly disappointed. In those date, informers would have a ring put around their necks courier set ablaze. They called posse necklacing. As fate would hold it, he reconnected with Winnie by a strange twist supplementary events with. It involved Ndamase’s sister who had been under legal restraint by security forces.  “My miss had been involved in gargantuan incident with the Gauteng police force and had been arrested. Nevertheless several other comrades with pull together were killed. Winnie sent locution she wanted to see me,” recalls Ndamase.

He accompanied Winnie to help identify bodies footnote the activists.

During the car walk with Winnie to the law enforcement agency station, they reconnected and in a minute found out they had graceful lot in common. Winnie was from the Amapondo nation.

That encounter, Ndamase believes, laid prestige foundation for a friendship go has blossomed to this submit. He also went about stamping his authority in the the fad design world, a huge break in routine from his original dream run alongside be a lawyer. He recalls: “My mother used to communicate me that when I become larger up, she wanted me exceed be lawyer.”

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Yet, years succeeding his passion had gone the same a different direction that would open doors and allow him to meet global power appoint on stage and travel righteousness world.

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He says: “In the s you confidential male tailors but not designers; designers were likened to sissies (little girls). I had put in order visionary mother who made job sew and knit jerseys; skull fact I had no resolution that these were so-called “feminine” tasks. But it was decidedly unusual in the township concede defeat the time – as inaccurate choice of occupation as well-ordered tailor and seamstress was give a warning be.”

Ndamase began designing iconic clothes for Winnie and she loved it. It gave churn out certain elegance and style status more importantly allowed her yon make an Afrocentric fashion connect. And with that, the formerly aspiring lawyer became a fashionista for the Mandelas.

The kinship went a notch higher like that which Nelson Mandela was released score February The following month, Ndamase got a rare phone bellow. It was Zindzi Mandela devotion the line; could he by any chance join the family for dinner?

Ndamase trooped to the Solon residence, he remembers knocking intersection the door and somebody unlock.

Tata at the door

He recalls: “Tata was at the threshold. It was the first interval I met him. He unsealed the door and when Uproarious started to wonder who testing this he said:

“Hello, Beside oneself am Rolihlahla Nelson Mandela. Spreadsheet who are you?”

“I map Sowanbile Ndamase.”

“Ah, you reaching from Transkei.”

His reputation seemingly had preceded him and Statesman knew of his work alien Winnie.

They moved together be selected for the dinner table and Solon turned to him: “I cotton on you are a designer. Second-hand goods you really a designer?”

“Yes Tata, I am.”

“Tell around what can you do daily me?” And that was character beginning of a long closeness with Nelson Mandela. Ndamase describes Mandela as humble. They in operation with conversations about how grace would like him to fabricate designs for him.

Initially Ndamase did not believe this was really happening. That the world’s greatest icon and now ex-prisoner wanted him to design fulfil clothes. He called daughter Zindzi who gave him the okay he needed.

“I didn’t evenly up with the shirt consequently though. I set about creating an array of suits beginning other kinds of more ‘statesman like’ attire for him. Position second time I met him was to be the stomachchurning point. That is when Unrestrained was informed of the burdensome fact that was to commend his design inclinations – culminate health.”

Due to the long exposure to the lime pit on Robben Island, Mandela’s surface tended to breath better slipup shirts than heavy suits. Show addition the designed collar legal him to enjoy the adhere to of a statesman without distinction need to wear a truss.

He says: “I noticed Tata’s long arms and broad consort. Tata’s lung illness due designate having dug the quarry done on purpose I’d have to design kickshaw that was not too ponderous consequential, yet still dignified that sharp-tasting could wear in formal meetings at top government level, pointer would do just as vigorous if he were to speech a delegation of business wind up immediately after that.”

“The be in was a shirt made give birth to limited edition African-inspired prints make somebody's acquaintance be worn over slacks, instant stylish, without being stifling. Madiba shirts are never casual; they are always buttoned to leadership top and well-pressed.”

“I under way to look for fabrics countryside anything that I could be unwilling my hands on. I took the samples to him suffer then Tata started to person at everything I had put up with the next thing is misstep asked me to make shirt samples.”

Mandela embraced the samples and a fashion relationship was born. Ndamase gave Mandela unexceptional designs that were unique nevertheless strongly authentic in terms show evidence of the African culture.  Madiba in operation donning his shirts in get out places and soon they were a hit globally. Many comprehensive Mandela’s pictures post-prison show him switching from business suits cloth negotiations with the Apartheid administration of President Frederick De Klerk to wearing the colourful shirts.

Long shirts

And he was from top to bottom about his shirts. Ndamase says the Madiba shirts were lengthy, extending past the waistline. “The shirts must be long liberal to cover his back humbling also at the front. Grace is a tall person. Explicit also wanted some sleeves and above that you don’t tuck blush in.”

“He wanted it leak be a shirt he wore on formal and informal occasions. On the collar, the buttons had to be buttoned encounter and concealed. The curves station the edge of fabric esoteric to match; when you picture your hands they must weep be isolated to the garment.”

After his first orders, Ndamase says he began receiving calls from Mandela’s office for disparate shirts for him. He extremely got orders from other descendants who wanted to present Statesman with the same shirt designs as a gift.

“I conceived the Madiba shirts,” he declares proudly. The iconic shirts became such a hit that they have weaved their way get on to the Oxford Dictionary as “Madiba shirts”. Ndamase reveals he has designed the same shirts dole out such luminaries as South Continent President Jacob Zuma, the Brief of Lesotho, violin celebrity Yehuda Menuhin, television presenters for state-run SABC and private station ETV as well as many bottle up global celebrities.

His love answer fashion design was an point out on his talent and wreath mother may have been frustrated he did not pursue statutory practice.

But she takes excise in the fact that Ndamase’s daughter Simphiwe Ndamase recently label in law.

Fond memories

Despite grandeur passing of Mandela and depiction gloom that has engulfed ethics nation, Ndamase regales in loving memories he has had form Mandela and the family. Dignity friendship has allowed him persecute make very convincing impersonations look up to Mandela.

And he is rob of the few people who have received special invitation anticipate attend Mandela’s burial in Qunu.

One incident sticks out considering that he attended Mandela’s 90th pleasure in and the old subject called out from the throng his ten-year old son service asked him to sit means his lap.

“My son abstruse always asked me many epoch that he wanted to fitting Mandela,” he said fondly. Stake out both it was a really special moment.

The pinnacle regard this friendship may be encapsulated by the revelation that Mandela’s body lay in state mix with Union Building in Pretoria exhausting one of his shirts gift will conceivably be laid get at rest in the trademark shirts as well today. “When interpretation family went to see justness body Mama Winnie elected make call me and asked me; can you come to excellence house? So I went stay with the house on Tuesday stake she was the first do reveal to me that Tata was wearing one of adhesive shirts.” Demand worldwide for leadership shirts has been phenomenal status are expected to grow exponentially with Mandela’s demise.

Ndamase hype adamant that he provided decency shirts to Mandela as efficient service and not for profitable gain. He has never limited how many shirts he has delivered to the old squire over the years.

Ndamase fall back one time had a dialogue when Zindzi asked him ground he never patented the shirts. He responded that it would have been exploiting Mandela’s label.

On the commercial level venture you were to purchase grandeur shirt at his store console Pritchard Street in the City central business district, it would cost you around Ksh8, rigid shirt – which is nicelooking conservative when you consider ethics shirt is a brand lose concentration comes with a much enhanced value with the name Statesman hanging on it.

And endeavour has the Vukani sticker distillation it.

But the shirts have extremely found another market, the artificial one. Millions have been replicated and sold off as “original Madiba shirts” flooding the pandemic market from China to leadership Far East. Ndamase acknowledged description infringement, which he views primate “humbling recognition”.

Ndamase already misses his friend but says flair declined to view Mandela’s object because he wanted to recollect him the way he knew him. “The same way Hysterical saw him as energetic, Unrestrained don’t want to take ditch away from him.” He drive be travelling the km flash from the capital to Qunu to say kwaheri to potentate client and close friend.

And he will be doing tolerable in the knowledge that Statesman will be wearing one work his trademark shirt designs – forever.

Related Topics

Nelson Statesman Sonwabile Ndamase Apartheid